#Smart battery isolator vs traditional battery isolator install

The better long-term solution is to just parallel all your batterys together, install a switched voltmeter that you can monitor while the vehicle is parked, and simply start the vehicle up when the batteries start to fall below 12 volts. If the secondary battery bank is big enough, it can melt the alternator in a single charging cycle. Depending on the regulator circuitry that is used on the alternator, the under-load switching of the relay can take out regulators also. This causes a lot of heat buildup in the alternator, and reduces the life of the alternator. By allowing one battery to be run down completely dead, and firing up the vehicle, the relay will swith over to the dead battery and cause the alternator to run wide open untill the dead battery comes up. In fact, now that I'm looking, I can't even find a straight up battery solenoid for car audio ?īattery isolators and relays are a good way to toast your alternator.

Plus, I have heard that isolators will cause a drop in voltage to the auxillary However, the three amplifiers I used to have, wouldn't have drawn as much power as my RF power 1000 will now. I could pound on my system until the amps started shutting off, hit my ignition, fire the truck right up, off of the front battery which had been untouched, then charge the rear battery for how ever long it needed, and it was all good.Īnd btw, I do like to be able to sit parked here and there, and listen to the stereo for 30 minutes to an hour, at moderate to high levels.

Well first off, I have used a battery isolator, back in the day, for the regular truck battery in the front, and the dedicated stereo battery in the back.